That little top I spoke about the other day is done and I’m pretty happy with it. I’d read quite a bit about the sewing instructions on sewing blogs and pattern review, which led to to research the RTW version online. As far as I can tell, the original was constructed using a coverstitch machine and the vogue instructions attempted to achieve the same effect using twin needle stitching using a regular sewing machine. Since I happen to have a coverstitch machine, I didn’t use a twin needle for this project (never had great results with it on jersey, anyway).
I also opted against the selvedges on the outside, which I think my jersey is too heavy for. Instead, I serged the raglan seams in addition to a handful of little squares. I then tested various needle/presser foot configurations on the coverstitch on those little squares until I found a pleasing combination: 3mm wide coverstitch stitched from the wrong side using the wider topstitching foot for the brother 2340cv. Using the two left needles allowed the serged seam to center well enough so the fabric was a breeze to guide through. The back received the same treatment – both the RTW and Vogue versions call for satin ribbon on either side of a minute gap between the left and right back pieces, but I didn’t have satin ribbon on hand and, again, I think my jersey is too heavy for this kind of treatment.
I completely undid the neckband – the instructions called for it to be topstitched with the raw edges apparent but I didn’t like the look – first, I should have sewn it with the wrong/purl side out. The edges rolled in and I feel it would be more successful with the edges rolling out. It could be my fault, though – I didn’t cut the band on the true bias. I ended up simply serging the neckband and neckline together right at the cut edge – can’t imagine I took off more than 1/16″ or so. Doing so raised the neckline a tad.
The bottom hem was simply turned up 3/4″, pressed and topstitched – I didn’t trim the miter, so multiple layers are present at each point but I don’t think it’ll be a problem. The sleeve hems received the same treatment but were only turned up 1/2″.
Fit wise, it’s pretty good (sorry, too camera shy to model). Being a little shorter than 5’4″, I removed 2″ from the body (1″ at each mark) and 1″ from the sleeve. The cap and underarm section seems a little long on me, but only by a little. I’ll definitely make it again with a very lightweight black jersey.